Comments on: mountain bike urban commute conversion: lessons learned http://www.rainmiles.com/archives/mountain-bike-urban-commute-conversion-lessons-learned.html a cycling blog from northern ireland, a place where it rains every other day Thu, 02 Sep 2010 18:43:10 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.0.1 By: John Girvin http://www.rainmiles.com/archives/mountain-bike-urban-commute-conversion-lessons-learned.html/comment-page-1#comment-667 John Girvin Sun, 14 Mar 2010 16:21:37 +0000 http://www.girv.net/blog/?p=273#comment-667 Thanks for the advice Mike. This bike is only ever used on the road so I've got away with the 5mm clearance so far, but I'll look into reducing it if I can. I did swap the race crown to the new forks. It's interesting that you mention uneven pressure on the bearings as it does feel the bars aren't turning smoothly all the time, but rather in "steps" sometimes. I could imagine this is down to something being wrong with the bearing setup, what do you think? Thanks for the advice Mike. This bike is only ever used on the road so I’ve got away with the 5mm clearance so far, but I’ll look into reducing it if I can.

I did swap the race crown to the new forks. It’s interesting that you mention uneven pressure on the bearings as it does feel the bars aren’t turning smoothly all the time, but rather in “steps” sometimes. I could imagine this is down to something being wrong with the bearing setup, what do you think?

]]> By: Mike http://www.rainmiles.com/archives/mountain-bike-urban-commute-conversion-lessons-learned.html/comment-page-1#comment-666 Mike Sun, 14 Mar 2010 07:24:36 +0000 http://www.girv.net/blog/?p=273#comment-666 hmm.. I do not think that this was really your problem. Yes it is true that you need to tighten your stem cap first for proper preload before you lock down your stem. (this was probably your biggest mistake in the first place) However, you only need 2mm clearance above them steerer tube. 5mm is way too much and in some cases (off road MTB application especially) this is dangerous. Did you take the old race crown off of your old fork and put it on your new fork? If you did not, then your bearings are not properly seated on the fork and you have placed may way too much (not to mention uneven) pressure on your bearings. This caused a False positive for your fix and will end up costing you a new headset in the future. hmm.. I do not think that this was really your problem. Yes it is true that you need to tighten your stem cap first for proper preload before you lock down your stem. (this was probably your biggest mistake in the first place) However, you only need 2mm clearance above them steerer tube. 5mm is way too much and in some cases (off road MTB application especially) this is dangerous. Did you take the old race crown off of your old fork and put it on your new fork? If you did not, then your bearings are not properly seated on the fork and you have placed may way too much (not to mention uneven) pressure on your bearings. This caused a False positive for your fix and will end up costing you a new headset in the future.

]]> By: John Girvin http://www.rainmiles.com/archives/mountain-bike-urban-commute-conversion-lessons-learned.html/comment-page-1#comment-105 John Girvin Fri, 30 Jan 2009 18:22:53 +0000 http://www.girv.net/blog/?p=273#comment-105 You mean a bolt through clamp type arrangement? I'd looked at those as they seemed much easier to fit than the regular star nut, but had been warned of them being not robust enough. I take it you disagree? You mean a bolt through clamp type arrangement? I’d looked at those as they seemed much easier to fit than the regular star nut, but had been warned of them being not robust enough. I take it you disagree?

]]> By: skipratt http://www.rainmiles.com/archives/mountain-bike-urban-commute-conversion-lessons-learned.html/comment-page-1#comment-104 skipratt Fri, 30 Jan 2009 17:14:42 +0000 http://www.girv.net/blog/?p=273#comment-104 I notice that you use the star nuts inserted into the top of the fork stem. I use a more robust and removable star nut from under the fork, giving a tighter headset that minimizes loosening of the fork on the descents. I notice that you use the star nuts inserted into the top of the fork stem. I use a more robust and removable star nut from under the fork, giving a tighter headset that minimizes loosening of the fork on the descents.

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